It is a little after 10:00 in Kirkenes, Norway, and our fjord cruise has just ended. This morning at 03:45 I woke up to see the arrival in Vardø, the most eastern town in Norway where I visited in January 2002. It was a moment of extreme beauty. Mark got up and two hours later we saw Vadsø, where I also visited eleven years ago. Now we are watching the passengers disembark for the buses to take them into Kirkenes. Mark and I are going to walk to town and stay on board until the crowds have thinned out. We are going to the border museum this afternoon, as Kirkenes lies very close to the Russian frontier and a border museum is the perfect attraction.